JOURNAL OF JOHN MAIR 

1791 



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REPRINTED FROM THE 



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VOL. XII., NO. I OCTOBER, igo6 



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[lse|ininc(i from Thk Amkkicax IIistoricai. Review, \\i\. XII., N... i, Oct., 1906.] 



2. Journal of John Mair, ijgi 

John IMair, Esquire, of Iron Acton, father of JMan^ Charlotte, 
wife of Nassau W. Senior, was born in 1744. His friends bought 
him a commission as cornet of dragoons and he immediately sailed 
for India in 1761. After much active service he retired from the 
army and sailed from India in the same ship with Lord Clive in 
1767. Elaborate journals of his stay in India and subsequent travels 
are in the possession of his granddaughter. He visited Paris 
on his way home, and lived there with John Wilkes and his daughter. 
In 1770 he again visited Paris to be present at the marriage of 
Louis X\'I. to ]Marie Antoinette, whom he ardently admired. He 
was an inveterate traveller, visiting all parts of England and the 
Continent, the United States, Canada, and the West Indies, where he 
was so much charmed with Dominica that he bought an estate 
and lived there several years. During the short time he lived in 
England he spent the winters at Bath. In his old age he bought 
the little estate of Iron Acton in Gloucestershire and took his son 
and two daughters to live with him. John Raven Senior was then 
parson of the parish, hence the marriage of Nassau Senior and Mary 
Mair. Mr. Mair died in London at his son-in-law's house, 13 Hyde 
Park, in 1830, of fatigue brought on by a hasty visit to Paris to 
see the results of the Revolution of 1830. His journals, in the 
possession of Mrs. M. Simpson, of Milmead House, Guildford, Sur- 



J 8 DocHinciits 

rey, daughter of Nassau W. Senior, fill seven volumes of 150 to 175 
pages each. We are also indebted to Mrs. Simpson for the notes used 
in preparing the preceding sketch. The narrative of American travel, 
while nowise profound, is interesting as recording the observa- 
tions of an intelligent and remarkably experienced traveller. The 
editor's attention was first called to it by Mr. James Bain, chief 
librarian of the Toronto Public Library. A division into paragraphs 
has been carried through in order to aid the reader ; there are none 
in the original manuscript. An extract from Mair's Journals de- 
scriptive of the marriage of Louis XA'L and Marie Antoinette ap- 
peared in the Cornhil! Magazine, September, 1899. 

The 3d. Janry 1791 I embark'd at night on board the Betsey. Capn. 
Flagg, a brig belonging to Portsmouth in America but bound for Charles- 
Town South Carolina, we attempted getting out at gun fire next morn- 
ing by the aid of the land winds which blow at night and till 9 oClock 
in the morng. but the sea breeze setting in very early we were forc'd 
to come to an Anchor again, and wait till next morning when we effected 
it but made little progress that day. we were forc'd to lay to 3 different 
times to avoid the Keys call'd the West Caicoss. Mayaguana, and At- 
woods which are Islands extremely flat, uninhabited, and are mostly sand 
bearing nothing but low shrubs, the nth. day we were on the edge of 
Soundings when a very strong Southwester came on which oblig'd us to 
lay to. it continued 36 hours and when it clear'd up we found ourselves 
carry'd greatly to the Northward by the Currt. which was so strong 
that whilst we were beating with a foul wind our head W S : W. we 
were carry'd 69 Miles North in the 24 hours ; we had got off Cape Hat- 
teras, when a severe N : W : gave us the Southing we had lost, and we 
once more got into our latitude, we had however calms and such baffling 
weather that we did not get in till the 29th. 

the land is so very low that you see the trees long before it. the 
lighthouse is here very necessary otherwise many vessels wou'd get on 
the bar. there is no fort of consequence ( Sullivans being now de- 
stroy'd) going up to Charles town but occasionally the passage might 
be made very strong, the Town looks much better from the Sea, than 
it is found to be on entring it. for the streets being unpav'd the sand 
makes it very heavy walking, the houses are very irregular, and mostly 
but badly built, tho' there are some that are very handsome, the Town- 
house and the Exchange are good regular buildings, as are the 2 parish 
churches; had those fronting the warfs been regular and well built it 
might have vied with the Charteron of Bordeau ; there are also several 
very obnoxious swamps not only about the shore, but in the very middle 
of the Town, yet houses let prodigious dear, I saw one on the beach of 
only 2 Rooms on a floor, that sometime since let for 30o£ Ster : pr. An : 
the warfs are very commodious, and belong to individuals, but its 
a pity they were not made uniform: the shipping here surpris'd 




Journal of John Maii\ //<?/ 79 

me with their mimlier amounting to upwards of 200 sail, and 
most of these large ships or Brigs ; the old Fortifications are 
destroy'd. its natural situation is very strong, being flank'd by two 
rivers (Cooper and Ashley) and the lines across the main land cou'd 
soon be made very strong: the Market for meat etc is pretty good, but 
very dear, indeed every Article is to the full as dear as in the West 
Indies, and the profits nuist be very great to afford the Expence, yet 
it wou'd seem by the complaints I heard that money is very scarce, and 
the produce of the rice plantations are by no means in general adequate 
to the expenditures in forming them, one reason indeed of the houses 
in town letting so high, is, that every planter that can afford it, has a 
residence, there, for the heat of summer (which is infinitely greater than 
in the W : I: it having remain'd 4 days last summer at 104 degrees) is 
so dangerous to the health, that they then come to town ; the climate 
however from Novr. to April is generally mild ; when the wind call'd 
the Hobeaw (N: W:) blows it is sometimes piercing cold. I also felt 
some days when it was at South East as unseasonably warm, the dust 
in the streets is unsuft'erable, one inhales enough when the weather is 
dry and the wind high to choak one. 

the inhabitants are nnich divided and I think from the Interest some 
families maintain, and the suppleness of the Merchants and Tradesmen 
that they verge very much towards an Aristocricy ; when alone people live 
very frugally, when they entertain, it is allways to a crou'd and then they 
cram their Tables with solids of an enormous size, they drink little 
else but Madeira, they have no regular Assembly, we strangers gave 
one Ball, the Freemasons another and in the Race week which was the 
2d. March, at which all the contiguous planters flock'd, the Jockey club 
gave another, the Assembly room is infinitely too small, and the 
Musick and supper-rooms wretched beyond Idea, they have Concerts 
once in 14 days tho' they are but inditlerent. the Sex here 
are very handsome, tho' in general they want colour, most of them have 
been educated in Europe, but quitted it too early to have form'd their 
Manners to the stile there. 

they have lately estaljlish'd the meeting of the Legislature at Colum- 
bia, as a place more central than Charlestown, and the Govt, was this 
year new model'd, and a new code of laws made which according to 
appearance are fully equal to exigencies, they have inumerable Lawyers, 
but what pleadings I heard did not give me a high Idea of their Ora- 
tors, and their Courts are totally void not only of majesty but even want 
decency. I heard the tryal of a Man (who had serv'd as a Major in the 
Wars, and had took the name of Washington) for forging indents, they 
were very delicate in their proceedings, but on the most glaring proofs 
he was condemn'd and executed. 

the country contiguous, is all a sand, and but little clear'd. being 
mostly what they call Pine Barens. ' the Rice swamps begin 10 or 12 
Miles distance, and are either on the rivers which are embank'd to keep 



8o DocHincnts 

out the tides, or inland in low swampy places, some of those have run- 
ning streams, which may be turnd into the swamps when the rice or the 
fertilising the ground requires it, for instead of dung, they lay their 
fallows under water for 2 or 3 years ; I went to see some plantations 
nearest the town but the most perfect are those on the Santee river 
or near George town. The back country is cultivated in Tobacco, but 
the distance they are oblig'd to send it by land must barely give a living 
to the planter, they put a shaft through the hhd and rowl it down 
with 2 Horses, and tho' it is drag'd througl^ swamps and pools of water 
it is so hard pack'd as not to be damag'd. I am told the country beyond 
the Hills is a fine climate and soil. it is inhabited by Refugies from 
Virginia, whose manners are more savage than the Indians, but they are 
a strong hardy race, and I make no doul)t in time will become respect- 
able to their Neighbours. 

I saild from Charles Town the 24th. March in the brig Hetty Clouser 
bound for Philadelphia, my original intention was to go to Norfolk 
in Virginia, and thence by land to that City, and to have calFd in my 
way on Genl. Washington at Mt. Vernon, but I learnd that he was 
on his way to Carolina, therefore I chang'd my rout, we sailed with a 
verv fair wind for 2 days when it became quite contrary and we had 
very bad stormy weather, and it was 10 days before we made the Capes of 
the Delaware, the land thereabouts is as flat very near as at Carolina, 
the river is very wide till within 60 Miles of the Town, when it nar- 
rows considerably, it is counted 150 or 160 Miles from the Capes to 
the Town, the Jersey shore seems but little cultivated, the other side 
has several small Towns which look very pleasant, the tide is very 
rapid, and in two days more making in all 12 days from Charles town, 
we got up to the wharf the 4th, April. 

one does not see the city on acct. of the short turnings of the 
different reaches till within a league of it. it's appearance is not so 
striking as Charles town, but when landed the streets exhibit great 
neatness and regularity, and the houses are well built and all of brick, 
the streets are pav'd, but are at present in a very bad condition; Mnrket 
Street is the broadest but the lower part of it is spoild by the stalls 
for provisions, the exhibition of which is very fine, and their beef rivals 
Leaden hall, fish is not quite so plentifull, and is mostly of one sort, 
the streets are lay'd out paralel with the wharfs, and are nam'd Front, 
Second etc, the cross streets amongst which is the Market Street, have 
various names, the town is very extensive, and houses let at a very 
high price especially since the Congress have fix'd themselves here, 
lots of land for building are at an enormous price, at the back of the 
town is a very large tract of land all mark'd out as far [as] the Schul- 
kill for buildings, and they are soon to build a Square, in which is 
to be the Presidents house, and all the Federal offices, the Government 
buildings belonging to the state are uniform, and neat and have a good 
walk behind them, the Court house is small, nor do they use more 



Joitrnal of John Mair, lygi 8i 

Ceremony at tlie Tryals tlian in Charles town nay not so mucli for 
they wear no Gowns ; They have a poor house where Idlers are put that 
beg in the streets, and are made to do something for their maintainance. 
their Hospital is on a very good footing and very clean, the Lunaticks 
are also taken care of here. 

I expected to have found greater simplicity of manners and dress 
than I did, but now the Quakers alone seem to retain it. all the other 
inhabitants are as gay and dissipated as in London, and the abode of 
the Congress has introduc'd all kinds of luxury, they have plays, balls, 
Concerts etc, and the Routs at different houses vie with St, James's, 

commerce here seems to thrive very much, and the new establish'd 
funds have given prodigious fortunes to some individuals, the wharfs 
for the shipping are very convenient but they have spoild the original 
design of leaving a considerable area between the Front Street, and them, 
by building an intermediate street call'd \\'ater Street ; the Churches for 
the protestants and different religious sects are numerous, the Quakers 
have 5, they are all neat. 

the president when he is here resides in a house rented of Mr. 
Morrice the Financier, he observes great simplicity of manner, but 
whether from disposition of [or] policy associates but very little with 
any one, he never accepts an invitation to dine out, but his Secrety, 
invites strangers very often to dine with the prest. and he has a leve 
day, and his wife an Evening but witht. cards, whilst I was here I 
met all the remarkable characters at the feast of St, Geo: which is 
regularly kept up ; I think their state of society will bear improvement, 
which their converse with strangers will soon effect, 

every day I was here I rode out nor can there be more beautifull 
rides than in the environs, the banks of the Delawar, and the opposite 
shore of the Jerseys are very picturesque but the Schulekill is enchant- 
ingly roniantick, the hills coming down in a slope sometimes gentle some- 
times steep to the side of the river, both of these Rivers are orna- 
mented with beautifull Country Seats, full of fruit etc etc. at present 
land is rather in a state of depreciation, and one of these houses with a 
consble farm contiguous may be purchas'd very cheap, for commerce, 
and the state Securities engrosses every speculation, they have here an 
ugly weed that does much mischief, and can't be rooted out call'd Gar- 
lick, the Milk and even the meat tastes of it. 

the inland country between the Rivers is beautifull, but the British 
have rob'd it of its trees, these rivers in time will probably be joind, 
and if that, and the cuts design'd for the upper inland Navigation suc- 
ceed, this city bids fair to retain its Metropolitan dignity, and to be in 
future Notwithstandg the town recently mark'd out on the Potowmack 
the Seat of the Federal Govt, the roads are of that sort of earth that 
require either the assistance of gravel or paving to make them good, 
they are lay'd out very broad, but are dreadfull in winter, and disagree- 
ably dusty in summer, the Waggons that supply the city with corn are 

A.M. Hl^]. l,KV.,VoI. Xll.— 6. 



82 Dociuiioits 

continually passing, bringing it from the contiguous Towns of which 
there are a great number, the Schulkill has 3 bridges lay'd on large logs 
of wood over it. at the town of Greys is a pritty Garden which in 
summer is lighted up to serve as a Vauxhall ; there is also another Gar- 
den of the same nature 4 Miles on the Frankfurt road call'd Harrowgate 
from the similitude its waters have to those of the same na-iie in Eng- 
land. 

having seen as much of the country contiguous as circumstances 
wou'd permit, and finding that my plan of passing to New York by 
Bethleham cou'd not be effected without my staying till May when those 
stages then begin to run, I embark'd the 27th. April on board a boat to 
Burdlington which lys 30 Miles up the Delawar. nothing can be more 
delightfull than this voyage for the Banks on each side are decorated 
with small Towns or country houses, this conveyance however has its 
inconvenience as I fatally experienc'd. for the wind which was fair at 
setting off changing, and the tide changing agt. us we were forc'd to 
come to. and did not arrive at our destination till next morning; from 
hence we set out in a stage for Amboy, the road rather rough, the 
country rich and pritty well settled. Amboy is 40 Miles from Burding- 
ton and is only a single house which is an Inn, we arriv'd here at 2 
oClock, and immediately embark'd on board the packet, having a fair 
wind, our Voyage was delightfull the coasts of Statin Island, the Jer- 
sies, and long Island affording a most delightfull scene also a distant 
view of the hook, but after we had got through the narrows, it fell 
suddenly calm, and the tide about sun-setting changing, we were forc'd 
to Anchor within 6 Miles of the Town, and pass'd a very cold and un- 
comfortable night on board, in the morning of the 29th. we again got 
under way but it being quite calm we did not get to the Quay before 10 
oClock by which delay however I had an opportunity of contemplating 
the beautifull prospects that surrounded us. the distance of Amboy to 
new York is 30 Miles, and is generally run in one tide. 

nothing can be more beautifull to the eye or advantageous for com- 
merce than the Situation of New York, it is in a corner of the Island, 
form'd by the North or Hudsons river, and the Channel or East River, 
the Quays are mostly (for ships) on the East river, and from the Battery 
where is the Govt, house (a massive but not an elegant building) and 
where they are making a beautifull parade, is as fine a view as the eye 
can wish; the town has some very good houses in it. the Hall, the 
Churches, and Hospitals are all good or handsome buildings, the 
Streets are irregular and some of them very narrow, but the pavement 
at present is very good ; commerce here is ver}' advantageous, and most 
people are at their ease, some indeed rich, they deservedly have the 
character of being hospitable, to strangers, and I think in general are 
more easy than any of the other States, young people marry here 
very early, and either old Maids or Bacheldors are rare. 

as they have an easy communication by the North river to the in- 



Jourftal of John Mair, ijgi 83 

terior parts of the country they employ a prodigious number of 
craft for that purpose, and as this port seldom or ever freezes they 
boast of that advantage over Philadelphia where ships are frequently 
detaind by the Ice. New York Island is joind to the Main by a 
bridge 15 Miles from town, the Island is very narrow, the land poor, 
the roads are not so varied as Philadelphia, but the rides are bcauti- 
full. there are several rising grounds from which one commands a 
view of both rivers, particularly at Fort Washington 1 1 Miles from 
town ; the Ferry to Long Island is short, and the country and roads 
are there beautifull and extensive, the Ferrys to the Jersies are 3, 
to arrive at Newark 7 Miles, which makes excursions there very in- 
convenient. I rode one day to see the falls of the Pisaick river 25 Miles. 
the fall in itself fell greatly short of my expectation, but as I made a 
circle by the town of Hackinsack and the road for the most part going 
by the side of those two rivers nothing can be more picturesque than 
the country, it is so thickly setled with small farms that it appears as 
one continual villiage. and really might be compared in beauty to the 
Thames, except that it wants the embellishments of buildings and Gar- 
dens. The Markets of new York are little inferior to Philadelphia, 
that of the Fish better, people live very well here, and cheap, in the win- 
ter they have balls, routs, and all kinds of amusements, but the moment 
the summer approaches all finishes, but tea parties. 

the 22d. May I embark'd on board the Providence packet for New- 
port in Rhode Island, where we arriv'd the next day after a sail of 
26 hours, the prospect on each side the Channel of Long Island and Con- 
necticut Shores was as delightfull as a well setled, and beautifullv varia- 
gated country cou'd render it. 

the Town of Newport bears the traces of having once been 
eminent, but many of the inhabitants being ruin'd in the war 
by their attachment to the Royal cause, several houses are empty, 
and their Trade has quite dwindled away, tho the Harbour is al- 
low'd to be the best in the States, and it offers every advantage a 
commercial people cou'd wish ; some of the buildings have been good and 
handsome, but must now soon decay. I took a ride round the Island 
which is about 15 Miles long, but is very narrow, the road is very 
good, and the countr)' beautifull, and must have been eminently so, be- 
fore the British troops devasted it of its trees, the fences are mostly 
stone, the land is mostly gently rising and falling, it is in general 
good, and was very well cultivated, the channel to the continent is not 
above J4 a i\Iile and the prospects from the rising grounds are very 
extensive on each side ; we foimd a French Ship of \\'ar of 74 Guns, 
anchor'd here, call'd the Dugay Trouin. she call'd in here for supplys 
on her way to Europe from ]\Iartinico having a vast number of land 
troops on board. 

at 12 oClock next day we again set sail, and having a fine wind got 
to Providence by 5 oClock in the afternoon, there is an assemblage of so 



84 Documents 

many beautiful! prospects in this passage, particularly when going up the 
river that it wou'd be difficult to do justice to them, the channel has 
several well cultivated Islands, and tho when arriv'd in the river the 
Banks are very steep and high, the rapid rise of the lands contiguous 
presents a very picturesque view on every side, which is bounded (on 
rounding the point) bv the town, which lays under the hills, it is 
well built, and as it owes its rise to the fall of Newport every thing looks 
fresh and wears an air of business, it is as large as Newport and 
has several good buildings, but like that mostly of wood, the ri\er 
divides the town, but is connected by a bridge ; I observ'd both here and 
at Newport that they are very curious in the spires of the churches, 
on an eminence (w'here there has been a fortifycation) above the town 
is a most extensive and beautifull prospect of the whole of the town, the 
sea, the Islands, and circumjacent lands on the continent. 

we went from hence about 8 oClock the next morning, in the stage, 
and got to Boston at 6 oClock in the afternoon, stopping half way 
to dine, the distance is 45 Miles, the road pretty good, and the coun- 
try finely varied, there were several Villiages we pass'd through and 
some beautifull farms ornamented with fine fruit trees, and having 
plenty of trout Streams; most of this country is in pasture, tho' they 
have some Arable land; there are several handsome country seats just 
before one comes to Roxburgh which is only a Alile from the Neck. 

Boston is not so big as new York, and where it not for the causeway 
or Neck wou'd be an Island, it is mostly built on the ground contiguous 
to the Harbour, so that it extends very long, behind are several hills on 
one of which is a Column bearing a very proper Inscription, from 
hence is a complete view of the Town, and circumjacent country; 
there is a Mill pond which covers a considerable space of ground and 
which being easily draind wou'd afford Room for a fine square or other 
buildings, the Streets are pritty good, tho the pavement wants mend- 
ing, and the foot way broad stones, those it at present is pav'd with 
being very rough and pointed, most of the houses are of wood, but some 
of them are very neat, as yet they have no lamps which is very in- 
convinient for the nightwalkers. the Churches and ]Meetings are all 
very handsome, and that intolerance which they were once so famous 
for is now no more and I was present at the social meetings, of the 
Catholick, the Protestant Bishops and Divines, the Clergy are very 
numerous. I was told 150 were invited to the publick dinner the Govr.' 
gave on the day of his being again rechosen into the Government, 
the Quays are very convenient, and distributed all along the Harbour, 
the long Quay is handsome, and is the property of several individuals, 
they have begun several manufactories, that for Sail Duck is counted 
a valuable acquisition to the state, it employing a number of females 
on a very liberal footing; and furnishing that article in greater per- 
fection than they cou'd import it. they are encouraging for that pur- 

^ Hancock. 



Joumtal of John Mair. ijgi 85 

pose the cultivation of hemp and expect from every appearance great 
success, the circumjacent country is heautifull, being mostly pasture 
ground, for as yet they do not grow corn in common, importing most 
of their flower from Philadelphia. None of their puhlick buildings 
are nmch worth noticing, their Market both for fish and flesh is pritty 
abundant but wants the neatness of the other cities. 

I made frequent excursions on Horseback, to the contiguous towns 
and villiages. from the Church at Dorchester' there is a charming 
view of a fine country the Harbour which is render'd more beautifull 
by its being replete with small Islands, and the town, the road lead- 
ing to Cambridge over the Neck and returning by Charles town is very 
pritty. the Colledge is a good building, and on a good foundation, 
there is a small ri\cr navigable for sloops up to it. it is about 4 Miles 
from Boston. I frequently went to .see Bunkers hill which is con- 
tiguous to Charles town which during the war was burn'd down, nor 
has it since recover'd its former size or splendour. 

the Inhabitants in general are very hospitable, but do not give much 
into the pleasures of the table dining early and doing as much business 
after as before dinner, nor do the ladies come much into company, 
some of them are very pritty, but want the polish of language, and the 
easy and eligant manner polite education gives. 

the 8th. of June I took leave of Boston and went in the stage to Hart- 
ford, this is the only mode of conveyance in the united states, and 
is bad enough especially when crowded, for their numbers are not stinted 
and both there and at their Inns people are bundled together like sheep 
going to Market; the country we pass'd through is beautifully varied 
well waterd and has several small lakes or ponds, in general hillv. the 
road tolerable and capable of being made very excellent, replete with 
towns and villiages in short a very thick setled country for the first 60 
Miles, after which the soil being bad (a loose sand) there is much wood 
left standing, and the settlements but thin, till near Springfield on the 
river of Connectacut, where the Stage is ferry 'd over, from thence to 
Hartford (the Capital of Connecticut) the country is very rich, and 
mostly a plain, so that the Towns and villiages allmost extend to one an- 
other. Suffield, and Windsor are both handsome towns, and are in- 
habited by Gentn, retir'd on their Ests. 

Hartford is a pritty extensive town, the streets very long, but not 
pav'd, some of the houses are neat enough l)ut all are built of wood, it 
stands on the Connectacut river and has a small river running through 
the town into it, it ships horses, cattle etc for the W : I : and a quantity 
of hay of the Southward, they also breed a numlier of Mules in this 
country a branch of connnerce which is daylv encreasing. from the 
Balcony of the church Steeple one has a charming view of the circum- 
jacent country, than which nothing can be more rich and beautifull. 
we hir'd a carriage from hence next day, and went to see i\Iiddletown. 

" Meetinghouse Hill. 



86 Docnnicnts 

about 4 Miles before one gets there is an eminence which co-nniands 
the most delightful! countr}- I ever saw, realh' it appeard not inferior to 
the vale of Evesham and the river simular to the Severne ; the town 
seems pritty large tho' stragling. it is 15 Miles from Hartford, on 
our way home we mounted the hights of Rockey hill a small Town 7 
Miles from Hartford, where we again were gratifyd with a beautifull 
view. Weathersfield is 4 ]\Iiles from Hartford and is a pritty large and 
well built town. 

having amply gratify 'd our curiossity in this fine country, we with 
some difficulty got a Waggon (cover'd) to carry us across the country 
to Albany, and on Sunday the 12th. (having obtaind a written permis- 
sion from the Mayor on account of the day) we set off. the country 
was pritty well cultivated to Farmington {12 Miles) wdiere we got to 
breakfast, the road good : a very fine river serpentines through these 
plains, and joins the Connecticut river at Windsor, from hence the 
road became worse and the country hilly and little selled. we din"d at 
New Hartford 12 ^liles a small villiage ; a i\Iile from hence the green 
woods began, the road now became horrid and scarcely passable for 
a carriage, we moimted several very steep hills, and the rocks and 
stones made it difficult to proceed ; now and then we met a small settle- 
ment in its infancy, but from the general aspect of the country, I 
shou'd judge when it is once very well setled that it will be very beatui- 
full. the air as it lys high is purer and cooler than the plains ; we lay'd 
at a small villiage call'd Colebrooke 12 Miles and really our quarters 
were much better than I expected, they 'told us here that even now 
they sometimes saw Panthers in the woods, and wild cats, besides deer 
and other game ; early next morning we proceeded and at the end of 4 
Miles found a small villiage call'd Norfolk which is coimted out of the 
hilly wood land, we breakfasted at Canaan a small town 4 ^liles 
prittily situated, the country now appeard better setled. hence we 
went through Shiffield' a small town to Great Barrington where we 
din'd, 14 Miles, the road good, the country hilly but pritty well setled. 
this is a small town its situation fine being in a valley where a river 
runs through, we lay"d at a small villiage call'd Stockbridge 13 Miles 
near where are some Iron works, next jNIorning we breakfasted at 
New Lebanon^ 14 Miles, passing through Richmond 3 Miles a handsome 
town and prittily situated ; the road good, and country well cultivated. 

Lebanon is very extensive, in its district or Parish which extends 
10 or 12 Miles as is the case with most of the towns in this new country 
are several Establishments one in particular very singular call'd the 
Shaking quakers street, these people being of both Sexes live in a 
state of celibacy, even those marry 'd before on coming here are sepa- 
rated, they are very industrious have cleard a great deal of land and 
have got good buildings, on Sunday they pray, and what is unaccount- 

' Passing now from Connecticut into ilassachusetts. 
2 In New York. 



Journal of Jolin Maii\ J/Qi 87 

ably singular dance to different tunes with -such vehemance tliat the 
Men frequently are obld. to throw off all their clothes but what decency 
requires to remain, they are in great subordination to their elders who 
directs the dance and prayers and regulates the whole Oconomy of the 
society, a prostitute who follow'd the English Camp is said to be the 
foundress.^ it seems too absurd and too prejudicial to a rising popula- 
tion to last, they say when question'd, that dancing serves by its 
violent exercise to subdue their passions to venery, but I have allways 
been inclin'd to think the reverse the fact, the spring of Lebanon was 
once more frequented than at present, it is a very weak water, and 
barely the chill taken oft', its situation is beautifull. on a hill which 
commands the circumjacent country, which is well setled, and has 
several dift'erent villiages in the valley below; we found some invalids 
here and there are 4 or 5 good houses to accomodate lodgers. 

at 12 o'clock w-e continued our rout, and din'd at Stevens town 9 
Miles, a small villiage. the country hilly, pretty well setled, and a fine 
stream running through the valley which empties itself into the North 
river at Kinderhook. we Slept at Phillips town a small villiage 7 
Miles, and next Morning got to Albany 14 Miles, crossing the north 
river directly opposite the town; a great part of the last 21 Miles is but 
little setled, the road good, the country hilly, the whole distance from 
Hartford to Albany 115 Miles, the mountains of the green wood which 
I am told extend up to Canada seem a division design'd by nature be- 
tween the North and Connecticut rivers. 

Albany is situated on the North river at the foot of hills, which tlio 
it shelters it from the cold in winter makes it exceeding hot in summer, 
the town is pritty large and has some good buildings in it. the streets 
are wide, the inhabitants are a mixture of Dutch and English, but the 
Dutch manners are disagreeably predominant, the circumjacent country 
is beautifull, a fine view of which is had from the hills at the back of the 
town, it is inconceivable what a great trade is carry'd on between this 
place and York for Grain lumber etc. I counted myself 30 sloops and 
Schooners at anchor, and am told there frequently is a hundred, the 
river here is about as broad as at London bridge, but it is navagable 
for sloops no higher. Mr A'an Rhenselleir is possess'd of lands stretch- 
ing 24 by 20 Miles, but the spot where the town of Albany stands tho' 
in the middle of his lands has its own rights etc. 

I rode from hence one day to the falls of the Cohouse.' it is about 
nine Miles from Town the road along the North river till arriv'd at one 
of the branches of the Mohawk, it is three Miles up that river, the 
width there is broader than the Rhine, but it is not so high, nor near 
so much water except when there has been a great fall of rain or the 
snow melting, it then not only fills its bed but over flows the road and 
contiguous fields, and must certainly be a most magnificent sight, the 
fall is very little broken so that the sheet wou'd then be perfect. 

^ The reference is to Mother Ann Lee. 
^Cohoes. 



88 Docniuents 

the iSth. I began ni}- rout for Fort Geo: in a \\'aggon. we set off at 
noon, and got that night to Saratoga about 2 ^Nliles from the creek 
where General Burgoyne was encamp'd when he surrenderd and Genl. 
Schuyler had a house, it is 38 Miles from Albany, we pass'd Troys 
a small town 6 Miles [from] Albany, and Lansinberg or the New City 
(rather larger than the first) 9 Miles from Albany. Water town' is on 
the West side the North River, which at Troys begins to be very shallow 
and continues with only some intervals of deep water for 15 ]\Iiles so, 
when the still water begins which is deep enough, in time probably 
channels will be dug through these rapids to admit the passing of sloops, 
nor wou'd such a cut be attended with much expense, the road is all 
the way by the river side, (we ferry'd over it twice) is very good and 
the country well setled and pleasant, but on account of the highths on 
each side the river the view both E: and W: is confin'd. I remark'd 
the 4 mouths of the Mohawk river on the northenmost of which is 
Water town, I had some thoughts once of going to Schenectade a town 
laying on the banks of the Mohawk about 8 Miles from the mouth, and 
thence to see the Springs of Satarago which by the accounts I had of 
them must be waters of great efficacy, but dreaded the roads and accom- 
odations. 

the next day (Sunday) being very rainy I did not stirr out. ^Monday 
20th. about 1 1 oClock noon we arriv'd at Fort or Lake Geo : the road 
good and by the river side till 3 Miles past Fort Edward where we 
breakfasted, this is a small Town and the country mostly setled. V2 a 
Mile where the road turns off from the river is a pritty water fall call'd 
Wings fall, the platform of a solid rock over which the river runs, 
has a trought or canal worn into it through which the river when it is 
not expanded by a great quantity of water to cover over its whole bed 
rushes very impetuously, the fall which is a few feet higher up, is not 
high, but looks altogether very romantick. the country from hence is but 
poor and little setled, and the road within the 4 last Miles is very stoney; 
the lake furnishes a beautifull view, it is near 1/2 a Mile broad, sur- 
rounded by hills all cloath'd in wood, and full of Islands, the 2 Forts 
of Edward, and \\'m. Henry are both destroy'd. the lands contiguous 
to the lake are but poor, in consequence there is but little of it cultivated. 

next day very early I embark'd in a two oard boat, and about 2 
oClock having mostly a fair wind arriv'd on the other side, or North, 
it is a very pleasant trip, one is amus'd by the view of the lake which 
is full of little Islands, tho' the surrounding hills which rise pritty 
steep from the edge of the lake are still in woods, except 2 or 3 small 
spots, when this lake is intirely cleared, it will become more beauti- 
full. it is full of fine fish, and generally furnishes plenty to the passers, 
its length is 36 Miles, extreme bredth 2 Miles. I got with some difficulty 
a cart to carry m)' baggage over to Tycondaroga, and walk'd there my- 

' Waterford is no doubt meant. 



Journal of John Maii\ IJ^;)I 89 

self, it is about three Miles, half way is a bridge over the outlet of 
Lake George which communicates with lake Champlain. it is here are 
the falls which are considerable, I think as high as the Cohouse but not 
so broad, nor did then the water expand to cover them, there is a fine 
saw and grist jMill below the fall, the country is here somewhat more 
clear'd and exhibits a fine appearance, the old French lines and Forts 
on Tycondaroga are in ruins, the surrounding plains are beautiful!, 
and are now mostly in pasture, but have few inhabitants. I think the 
view from the flat eminence where the forts stood is a remarkable 
beautifull and must Iiave been a healthy spot, it is a kind of tongue 
jutting into the lake and commands the pass, and on the opposite side 
of the lake is Forts Independance and Defiance in the state of Vermont, 
this communication of the lake is 20 Miles to the North of the head of 
lake Champlain where there is a small town call'd Skanesborough. 

I found that I had done wrong in coming here. I should have gone 
to that place which is only 14 Jililes more of land carriage, and 
promises a much more certain passage, for I had to depend here on 
the boats passing loaded from thence, and sometimes they go by in 
the night witht. calling in. I was forc'd to stay here 2 days before 
I cou'd find an opporty. the 23rd. at 3 oClock I embark'd in a row 
boat to go down the lake, and the wind being fair we made before night 
30 Miles, the breadth of the lake dont appear thus far to be above 
l'/2 Miles, the surrounding hills do not raise so rapidly as those 
[around] lake Geo : but leaving in general a plain next the side, and 
every i or 2 !Miles is a settlement, or villiage. Crown point is on 
the East side, and commands a narrow pass, the ruins announce it 
to have been considerable, it is on a fine plain, but I shou'd think 
the hills at the back must have alhvays commanded it. 

ne.xt morning early I continued my rout, the country and lake the 
same as the preceeding day for 20 Miles (in which distance we pass'd 
the river of Xew haven where 6 Miles up are very fine falls, on which 
river are Iron forges. Grist and Saw Mills) when the lake becomes 
much wider and encreases 'till it is 2^ Miles over, in an eastern hay of 
which lays Burlington a small town. Grand Isle begins here which runs 
as the lake for 24 Miles, and 3 Miles broad, then is La Mot's Isle, 
the lake again gradually decreasing, and about La Motts Isle the land 
seems low and swampy, the first british post is at Dutchmans point 
where is a Corporals guard, the second is at Point au fer where 
is a Capns. Guard, and an Arm'd Schooner; the next post is at Isle aux 
Noix where is also a Capns. Guard, this Isle is very small ; there are 
very few setlers after passing the first post, from whence the country 
seems a perfect swamp, swarming with flies and Muskatoes and hav- 
ing very few settlements till arriv'd at St John's where we did not get 
till the 25th. at 3 oClock in the afternoon. 

the Lake from Isle aux noix is very narrow not ^ a Mile broad, and 
it seems a miserable swamp, and only 3 log ho.uses in 15 Miles, indeed 



90 Docutnents 

most of the houses on this lake are built in the same manner, and the 
entertainment and lodging is most execrably bad. nor do I think it is 
much better at St. John's; the Barracks within the Fort, and the houses 
witht. belonging to private people, being mostly in the same stile, the 
whole as well as the ramparts and other parts of the fortification be- 
ing much out of repair, the plain it is situated on is somewhat elevated, 
and has been cleard to considerable distance to render it wholesome, 
the soil seems good furnishing a good natural pasture, and is no doubt 
capable of improvement, a 20 Gun Ship, and the Hulls of several lesser 
are laying opposite the town, where a short space more will turn them 
into rotten dust, the Garn. [Garrison] consists of 6 Compys. com- 
manded by a Lieutt. Col:, just without the fort is a rising ground where 
they bury the dead, which is much higher than where the fort stands, 
the Americans attack'd it from hence for it intirely commands it. and it 
seems this ground has been mostly clear'd since the last War. 

the 26th. after breakfast I sent forward my baggage by a Cart, and 
myself mounted a horse, and rode all the way by the side of the river 
St. Johns to Chambli. this whole road appears (12 ?vliles I as one con- 
tinued villiage. most of the land which is clear'd is in pasture tho' I saw 
some wheat that appear'd pritty thriving, the opposite side of the river 
is also somewhat setled; the Fort here is a square, and now serves as 
barracks for a company that is quarterd here, it has no ditch, and 
cou'd make no defence agt. cannon. the Town is stragling, but pritty 
extensive and has some good houses in it. the view from the fort is 
beautifully picturesque, the river from St. Johns to here is full of 
rapids, but from hence to Sorel where it joins the St. Laurence, it 
is navagable. 

after dining at the Fort at 3 oClock, I continued mv rout mosth', by 
the side of the small river Chambli which is exceedingly crooked and 
muddy, to Longueville ; the country is all clear'd except a breadth of 
about 3 Miles, which I am told runs in a line till it joins the woods 
of St. John's, the land is so flat that it is very subject to be cover'd 
by the rains but from the luxuriency of the pastures I shou'd judge 
the soil to be very rich, the houses of the Farmers are mostly log. and 
are much inferior in neatness to those of the states, the roads this 
way which is directly across the country that separates the 2 rivers, 
are exceedingly bad, and it was late before I arriv'd tho' the distance 
is call'd only 15 Miles. Longueville is a very extensive tho' very strag- 
ling town, the best houses and thickest together are on the banks of the 
river near the Church, here is also a small Fort but not garrison'd. 

when I gain'd the river St. Laurance which I did 2 Miles above the 
ferry the view of Montreal and the mountain behind it look'd very beauti- 
full but the river here is too shallow and rapid to admit a passage across, 
and it being late I slept at the Ferry, there is another rout to go to 
Montreal by La Praire 18 Miles from St. John's, and taking boat from 
thence down the river to Montreal which is 10 ]\Iiles below it, but as 



Journal of Jolin Mair, l/Qi 91 

it is sometimes uncertain I prefer"d the other way. the French language 
is the only one the peasants know, and they have retain'd also their 
manners, and the old French dress of a close Cassock and sash, next 
morning I cross'd. the river is extremely rapid but as the wind was 
fair I got over in '-2 an hour, a small Island lys midway on which a 
Capn. Grant lives who has a Mill there and has made it a beautifull spot. 

Montreal is long l)ut very narrow having but two principal streets 
which run the length of the town, the houses are mostly stone, low and 
in the French stile, some of the Churches are handsome, the streets 
are pav'd but are narrow, it is wall'd round and has ramparts but 
they are gone to decay, and the ditch is near fiU'd up ; there is a hill' 
just behind the town that intirely conids. it, and from the top of this 
hill I had a most beautifull and extensive view of the country, which 
is mostly a plaine and seems pritty well cultivated, nothing can be 
grander than the flowing through it of the river St. Laurance, which 
about 6 or 7 Miles above the town begins to be too rockey and rapid 
to be navigable but for flat bottom'd boats, they have at some expence 
render'd easy its communication with the Lakes; and no doubt time will 
greatly improve it, as the country is setled very much allready, and is 
dayly encreasing; the largest ships mount up to the Town with safety, 
and unload and load here ; and their export in Wheat and Flower is pro- 
digeous. most of the farms in this neighborhood are inhabited by Cana- 
dians, who are averse to improvement, and seem but a lazey set of people, 
and very superstitious. 

I stay'd here 2 days and on the 29th. (there is a Regt. lays here) 
embark'd on board a very small Schooner for Quebec, we got down 
as low as Sorel liy night and anchor'd 15 Leagues, the country on 
both sides beautifull, and well cultivated and seemd one intire villiage. 
the next day it was very calm but by the current we with some difficulty 
got through the Lake which is a very broad part of the river St. Lau- 
rance, full of little^ Islands and on that account difficult of navigation, 
the Islands are full of wood, and are swampy which makes them sv\'arm 
with Muskatoes, but on the main shore the Settlements are pritty thick, 
this lake continues 7 Leagues when the river becomes narrower, we 
next pass'd Trois Rivieres a pritty little town 3 Leagues below the 
lake, and continuing our rout made this day 25 Leagues when at night 
we anchor'd near a dangerous shoal, the country began after passing 
the lake to be less flat, the settlements the same, the Parishes being 
established at 2 Leagues each in extent ; next morning we pass'd the 
abovemention'd shoal and also another still more dangerous 6 Leagues 
below it call'd the Rapids, here the country is beautifully picturesque, 
the houses built handsomer and more numerous. 

about 2 oClock in the afternoon, the wind chang'd and blew fresh 
agt. us, at the same time also the tide chang'd (which flows up as high as 
the Rapids) so that we were necessited to anchor about 3 Leagues 

' Mount Roval. 



92 DocHuicnts 

above Quebec the whole distance 60 Leagues and as I found myself 
very much fatigued with my bad lodging, I got the Capn. to land me 
at the last post, and went to Quebec in a Calash, which I had reason 
to rejoice at as by that means I had an opportunity of seeing from 
the road which is on a Terrace the beautifull and thick setled plain 
which extends from a river I pass'd near the Post house, to the City 
of Quebec, the Post for travellers was establish'd by the French, 
it is a Calash with one Horse, which can occasionally carry two per- 
sons and pays I2d. pr. League, it goes all the way from Montreal 
but is very fatiguing, and the Inns on the road very bad, nor does 
one see so much of the country that way as by water as the road is 
by the side of the river all the way. the City of Quebec lays below 
the terrace on which the road is, nor does one see it 'till just entring it. 
it is divided into upper and lower towns, the upper is on the declivity 
of a hill and is surrounded by a wall, the part next the river is perpen- 
dicular, where are strong batteries of cannon, that intirely conid. the 
river, the lower Town is built on a very small space between the 
foot of the rock and the river, the streets of which are very irregular, 
the principal is very long, warfs are made here for the shipping but 
the fall of the tide is so consble that it is inconvenient unloading 
but at high water, the houses here are but indifferent and the streets 
not very clean or well pav'd ; the upper town is much better built, 
and has two long streets prilty regular, some of the buildings are 
good; the Govt, house is spacious and from the balcony which seems 
to hang over the rock there is a fine view', the Jesuits colledge is 
spacious, it is now turn'd into barracks, the churches and Convents 
remain as in the French tin'.e with all their rights, the Cathedral is a 
large but rude pile, the fortifications on the hill where also is the 
Citadel are very extensive and wou'd demand an enormous Garrison 
but cannot from their situation notwithstanding the expense they have 
been to the Govt, be strong, as there is a hill at a small distance which 
if it is not higher, is at least as high, and wou'd offer a most excellent 
situation for a Battery agt. it; the plains of Abraham are adjoining 
and are pritty extensive, the part where Genl. Wolf got up does not 
appear very steep, and has now a very good cart road up it, 

next day the 2d. July I rode to the falls of Montmorancy about 
9 miles, I pass'd a small river near the Grand Hospital (where is 
also the order of nuns that take care of the sick) which winds very 
much, and by the town of Beauport, got to a Villiage adjoining the 
falls, where I left my horse, and passing the grounds of Genl, Halde- 
niand where he has built him a pleasant wooden house, descended by 
a wooden stair case in his Garden to a small Pavillion which is sus- 
pended over the bason where the river falls, the height is about 245 
feet perpendicular, the breadth ' feet and take it altogether I think 

it is the finest fall I ever saw. I afterwards took a road that leads 

'Blank in MS. 



Journal of John Mair, ijgi 93 

below and rode down to the mouth of the river, where certainly it 
appears to its greatest advantage ; above the falls was a battery, and the 
aspect of the whole country hereabouts is beautifully romantick. the 
prospect of the Island of Orleans which is 7 ililes long and very well 
inhabited which here divides the river St. Laurance not a little heigthens 
the scene. 

next day I drove to the Indian Town of Loretta, the country is 
pritty well cultivated, about a hundred Indians have domesticated them- 
selves here, the Men hunt, the women cultivate the ground, and 
between them they seem to make out a comfortable way of life, in- 
deed except in dress they differ very little from the Canadians, they 
have a Church, and an old Jesuit occasionally officiates by whose docu- 
ments \jic\ they have form'd a very fine choir of female voices, the 
river I mention'd in passing to Montmorancy runs through the villiage 
and exhibits a romantick cataract of water on which they have a 
grist mill : next day very early I went in a boat about 7 Miles up the 
river, to a little river which there falls into the St, Laurance under the 
name of the Chaudiere; about 2 Allies up this river is a verv fine fall 
broader than that of Montmorancy but not above half its height, nor 
is it so perfect, as a rock that juts out about the middle divides the 
sheet of water, the spot about here is as savagely romantick as any 
I ever beheld, and altogether is as well worth seeing as the other, 
tho the road to get at it is rather inconvenient; I was told much about 
the 7 falls of St, Anns, but the difficulty attending the getting there 
tho' only 7 Leagues from Quebec, hinder'd mv attempting it. 

next day I rode out on the plains of Abraham, from whence is the 
most extensive and romantick view one can possibly conceive. I con- 
tinued my course through a wood and joining the high road to Montreal 
again had the rich and beautiful! view which is exhibited from this 
terrace. in the Evening I walk'd all round the ramparts which afiford 
a pritty walk, and got up to the Citidel from whence one cOmds. the 
whole surrounding country to a great extent. 

the people in the Govt, of Quebec dont seem to be very contented, 
the Seigniorial rights gall the Bourgoise and make them wish to par- 
ticipate of the same rights as are now establish'd in France, the 
Seigniors on the contrary are very jealous, and as much as they dare 
exert their power, the English sellers complain they are deceivd. as 
they came here in expectation of the English laws prevailing, the Law 
at present is a strange heterogeneous mixture and by no means perman- 
ent, very far are the inhabitants in general from following that Indus- 
try, Oconomy and Sobriety of the American colonies, it struck me the 
difference was to the full as great as I have in travelling in Europe 
observ'd it to be, between the free and tyrannick states; the Duties 
from the fur and grain trade dont half pay the expenses attending the 
large sallerys of the officers of Govt., and it must strike every disin- 
terested person that it wou'd be a saving to great Britain and a happi- 



94 Documents 

ness to the people if our Garrisons and civil officers were withdrawn 
and they left to govern themselves as soon as parliament have setled 
the division of the provinces, and put them in a way to go through 
with it, nor shou'd we lose any advantage we at present reap from their 
trade, on the contrary it wou'd by a liberal treaty be very much aug- 
mented. 

having seen everything in Canada that was the most worth seeing 
and wishing to get to Europe time enough to participate of the summer 
I took my passage in a ship nam'd the Chalmly Capn. Cayley bound to 
Liverpool, and on Wednesday the 6th. at 12 oClock took our departure 
from Quebec, which exhibits a fine appearance from point Levey, it 
being a fine day and a pleasant gale our trip down the river was very 
intertaining, and we had a most delightfull view of the falls of Mont- 
morancy, the Island of Orleans, the shores on each side seem very well 
setled appearing in a manner as one continued villiage; towards the 
close of the day We pass'd several Islands, but they don't appear setled. 
we put our Pilot on shore on Green Island of which he was Lord, the 
next day, and on Fryday coasted along Anticosta an Island as yet un- 
setled. it is about too Miles long and is capable of producing every 
necessary of life. 

we meant to go by the streights of Bellisle which much shortens the 
distance going the Northwds. of New Foundland instead of the South- 
ward, but the winds not suiting we gaind the Banks, so that I lost the 
opportunity of seeing the Esquimaux, who generally board the vessels 
passing: after coming on the banks a thick fog surrounded us, and the 
wind subsiding we caught some fish, when the breeze springing up dis- 
pell'd the fog a little and we saw several Ships, Brigs etc fishing, after 
this we had nothing but thick weather with a fair wind till we were near 
the coast of Ireland, when it cleard up for a day or two. 

the 27th. on Thursday we made Cape Clear early in the morning, but 
the wind coming due South attended by a thick fog we lost sight of it 
again, some pilot boats boarded us from whom we got some fish and 
potatoes, but a strong gale coming on I was unluckily prevented landing 
as was my intention in Ireland, the weather continued thick with a 
strong gale all Fryday and next morning we made Holy head coasting 
along the Welch coast under our courses on acct. of the wind, but the 
weather clear and fine, and affording a good prospect of the country, 
we got to Liverpool Dock the 30th. in the evening when I instantly 
stept on shore, and next morning being Sunday was intertain'd with 
viewing the great improvements that had been made about the exchange 
and contiguous streets : I found also that several new Docks had been 
built since I was here in 17S4. -i, 



\ 



